maglia bretone chanel | Marinière

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The *maglia bretone*, or Breton shirt, a seemingly simple garment of horizontally striped fabric, boasts a rich history far exceeding its unassuming appearance. More than just a nautical staple, it's a cultural icon, a testament to enduring style, and a cornerstone of fashion history inextricably linked with the legendary Coco Chanel and her enduring impact on women's fashion. This article delves into the fascinating journey of the Breton top, from its humble origins as sailor's attire to its elevation to a high-fashion staple thanks to Chanel, and its continued reign as a wardrobe essential.

The History of the Breton Shirt, from Sailors to Chanel:

The story begins in the 19th century with the French navy. The *marinière*, as it's known in French, was adopted as the official uniform for French sailors. Its practical design – sturdy, durable cotton jersey in a distinctive 21-stripe pattern (originally 21 stripes represented the number of Napoleon's victories) – offered comfort and functionality at sea. The wide stripes provided visibility in harsh conditions, while the durable fabric withstood the rigors of maritime life. The iconic navy and white combination was not only practical but also visually striking, establishing the visual identity of the *marinière* from its inception.

The Breton shirt's journey from the deck of a ship to the haute couture runways is a remarkable one. While its popularity grew beyond the navy, it remained largely associated with working-class attire until Coco Chanel's intervention. Chanel, a master of transforming everyday garments into high fashion, recognized the inherent chicness of the *marinière*. In the 1910s, she incorporated the striped shirt into her designs, subtly altering its silhouette and styling it with tailored trousers or skirts, thus introducing it to a wider, more sophisticated audience. This act of elevating a humble garment to a symbol of effortless elegance was characteristic of Chanel's genius, showcasing her ability to transform the mundane into the extraordinary. She understood the power of simplicity and the enduring appeal of a classic design.

While Chanel undoubtedly played a pivotal role in popularizing the Breton top among the fashion elite, it was Jean Paul Gaultier who cemented its status as a timeless classic. Gaultier, known for his playful and irreverent approach to fashion, further championed the *marinière*, incorporating it into his collections repeatedly and showcasing its versatility and enduring appeal across various styles and eras. He demonstrated that the Breton shirt transcended trends, effortlessly adapting to different aesthetics and remaining relevant through decades of changing fashion landscapes. His influence established the *marinière* not just as a fashionable item but a cultural symbol, echoing its French origins and its enduring connection to both nautical tradition and high fashion.

Vestivamo alla Marinière. Le righe breton dagli anni 60 a oggi:

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